Wild rose hips constitute an important raw material in the natural cosmetics sector worldwide as well as in Greece. KORRES Natural Products Company is well linked to the specific plant since the foundation of the company in 1996 until today and the “Wild Rose” line represents a significant percentage of its annual turnover. This specific species has not yet been cultivated in our country.
The aim of the research proposal “Green_Wild_ROSE.gr” is the development of a vertically integrated process which will include the cultivation of Greek clones of the Rosa canina L. plant for the first time in Greece, the extraction of rose hips with innovative green technology, the evaluation of the bioactivity of the extracts and finally their exploitation by the Natural Cosmetics industry. The cooperative scheme consists of KORRES Natural Products, School of Chemical Engineering-NTUA, National Hellenic Agricultural Organization – Demeter (NAGREF) and NCSR DEMOKRITOS.
The project’s duration will be 30 months and its implementation will be achieved in 7 steps:
1. Integration of Rosa canina L. species in cultivation systems with the development of Certified Greek Clones: Selection, genetic identification as well as evaluation of species possessing specific characteristics will be performed in order to create new clones and achieve their systematic reproduction using good agricultural practices. Modern cultivation systems will be employed in order to assure the reproducible high quality production of plant species and the preservation of the properties of the collected raw material.
2. Extraction of rose hips using green solvents and process optimization: An innovative, environmentally friendly process will be developed in order to extract the bioactive compounds from the Greek wild rose hips (Rosa Canina). Suitable Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents, (NaDES) will be produced using naturally occurring compounds, possessing increased extractability of bioactive compounds and the ability to remain integrated in the final formulation. NaDES synthesis as well as extraction conditions will be optimized and extracts’ bioactivity and phytochemical profile will be evaluated.
3. Enzyme assisted extraction of bioactive compounds: Appropriate enzyme systems will be selected in order to be used as pretreatment of the sample (Εnzyme Assisted Extraction, EAE). The extraction will be performed under mild conditions in order to preserve the bioactive properties of the extract.
4. Combined green extraction techniques: The enzymatic pretreatment of the plant material will be followed by extraction using the selected NaDES under optimized conditions. The final aim is the development of a viable, green process that can be applied on industrial scale for the recovery of high added value extracts.
5. Evaluation of the bioactivity of plant extracts: All extracts will be assessed for their antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity, UV protection ability as well as enzyme inhibitory activity in order to evaluate their anti-aging activity.
6. Pilot production, extract formulation and stability tests: Extracts will undergo the required stability tests according to KORRES’s company protocols.
7. Formulation, stability test, commercial exploitation of the final product: KORRES will incorporate the extracts in cosmetic formulations.
The final products of the new “Wild Rose” line will be developed leading to the commercial exploitation of the final product.